Tulum - Quintana Roo, Mexico

Tulum, Yucatan
 

The Late Post Classic site of Tulum ('Wall' or 'Rampart') lies some two hours south of Cancun on the beautiful Caribbean coastline of the Yucatan Peninsula.

Location is everything...(did I hear that before?). This small site of Tulum, in comparison to others, is worth the visit. The main building, 'El Castillo' (Structure 1), sits on a limestone cliff some forty feet above the turquoise blue sea. This structure or temple, like most on the site is constructed poorly. The stucco coating applied to the exterior of the buildings and painted in vibrant colours of red, Maya blue, yellow and white compensated for the shoddy workmanship underneath.

The 'Temple of the Frescoes' (Structure 16) has the remains of a mural which is fading fast and is regarded by some scholars to be influenced by the Mixtec culture of the Mexican Highlands. This mural was painted around 1400 AD and bears little resemblance to the Classic Maya Art of the Bonampak murals.

Stephens and Catherwood hacked their way to the site around 1840. Stephens surveyed the site whilst Catherwood created some of the most wonderful illustrations of the main structures surrounded by a dense jungle setting. Today it is best to wear a hat in the noonday sun, as there are few trees to hide under.

Tulum was primarily a trading post on the trade route around the Yucatan peninsula. Honey, delicious and highly prized, was the main export from this area and references to the Bee God, Ahmuzemcab, are found above the doorway at the entrance to the Temple of the Diving God.

Several meters from the shoreline and just below the surface lies the coral reef that stretches all the way down to Belize. I was told that the only entrance to Tulum from the sea was through a narrow channel in the reef that is navigable only at night, guided by a torchlight shining from a small window in the wall of the main temple. Only when aligned to this light is it possible to maneuver through the reef channel and approach the site from the sea!

I have visited Tulum on many occasions and still find it a charming and pleasant spot, although I recommend visiting early in the morning or in late afternoon so as to avoid the heat and the tourists.

 

 
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