The
Late Post Classic site of Tulum ('Wall' or 'Rampart') lies some two
hours south of Cancun on the beautiful Caribbean coastline of the Yucatan
Peninsula.
Location is everything...(did I hear that before?). This small site
of Tulum, in comparison to others, is worth the visit. The main building,
'El Castillo' (Structure 1), sits on a limestone cliff some forty feet
above the turquoise blue sea. This structure or temple, like most on
the site is constructed poorly. The stucco coating applied to the exterior
of the buildings and painted in vibrant colours of red, Maya blue, yellow
and white compensated for the shoddy workmanship underneath.
The 'Temple of the Frescoes' (Structure 16) has the remains of a mural
which is fading fast and is regarded by some scholars to be influenced
by the Mixtec culture of the Mexican Highlands. This mural was painted
around 1400 AD and bears little resemblance to the Classic Maya Art
of the Bonampak murals.
Stephens and Catherwood hacked their way to the site around 1840. Stephens
surveyed the site whilst Catherwood created some of the most wonderful
illustrations of the main structures surrounded by a dense jungle setting.
Today it is best to wear a hat in the noonday sun, as there are few
trees to hide under.
Tulum was primarily a trading post on the trade route around the Yucatan
peninsula. Honey, delicious and highly prized, was the main export from
this area and references to the Bee God, Ahmuzemcab, are found above
the doorway at the entrance to the Temple of the Diving God.
Several meters from the shoreline and just below the surface lies the
coral reef that stretches all the way down to Belize. I was told that
the only entrance to Tulum from the sea was through a narrow channel
in the reef that is navigable only at night, guided by a torchlight
shining from a small window in the wall of the main temple. Only when
aligned to this light is it possible to maneuver through the reef channel
and approach the site from the sea!
I have visited Tulum on many occasions and still find it a charming
and pleasant spot, although I recommend visiting early in the morning
or in late afternoon so as to avoid the heat and the tourists.